Thursday, 31 December 2015

The Yad Vashem Diaries Part I





DAY ONE
Day one of the program involved lectures about the importance of history to Judaic practice, and about the educational philosophy of the International School for Holocaust Studies which I’m attending here at Yad Vashem. The day was completed with a tour of Jerusalem with views towards the city from different directions. The weather was hazy meaning that it wasn’t terribly easy to orient yourself unless you knew where you were. 


It was so exciting to drive in to the Yad Vashem complex and to know I will be visiting here so frequently over the next three weeks. The International School for Holocaust Studies is situated to the side and our classroom has majestic views of the valleys and mountains around us.


The first session was a reminder that I don’t really know that much about Judaism, and that most of what I know is gleaned from its differences from Christianity. Some things were simple reminders, such as the fact that chapter and verse separation of the Bible is a Christian construct, or that Jewish memory is long, having been preserved and studied from thousands of years.


The Rabbi who spoke to the group discussed the qualities of a transcendent Creator whose progression in creation is deliberate, directed and purposeful. A distinct difference from Christianity is evident through incorporeality (never taking form) and in the placement/function of Shabbat – a recognition of God’s place in the scheme of things. Jews see this as connected with the six days of creation (no division between Gen 1 and Gen 2).


We were reminded that humanity (Not yet Israelites or Jews, but humanity) is created in the image of God ‘Tselem Elokim’ and that the essential quality of the human being is to shape moral will/choice. Thus the Rabbi declared the Jewish question throughout history – can/how can we make the best moral choice, especially recognising that God makes many commands which guide effective moral choices. He said that in a nutshell – developing the moral will depends on a willingness to exercise self-control.


Of course we could not fail to cover the Jewish connection to this land, the consciousness of which is established through the command to journey of Abram & Sarai to Canaan. This provided some sense of mission which would require devotion and a sacrifice and a sense of being ‘chosen’ without being superior. We then spent time discovering the historical connections to many of the Jewish commemorative festivals.


The second session showed us how to navigate the Yad Vashem website and where to find a variety of educational resources such as testimonials.


The final session of the day was presented by the pedagogical director, Shulamit. She had such charisma. 


Defining principles in holocaust education would be that it needs to be age appropriate and needs to avoid the shock treatment/trauma which might have been the approach of earlier generations. Instead, we aim to teach not an a historical chronicle but as human narrative. An objective is to acknowledge the Shoah produced a loss of culture and in communicating to others you give a face and identity to those who were lost. Also, it was important to ensure that you are helping the students understand the difference between history and memory. Knowing the facts is not the same as experiencing the impact.



Top tips:

Step 1: To know what was lost, you must know what existed beforehand.

·         Who were the Jews/other victims? (Don’t just know them as victims).

·         Create a connection to the human story – makes the holocaust relevant. Diary entries of children etc.

Step 2.1: How to teach the human story knowing that for many it ends in trauma?

·         Focus on the lives or on individual experiences (eg a few or select ghettoes, not all).

·         Nazis didn’t only kill, they aimed to dehumanise and to kill the spirit. How did people live in the shadow of dehumanisation? Not how did they die – how did they live?

Step 2.2: Teach showing the complexities (how did they live and survive?).

·         Can lead to the question – why didn’t the victims do more to save themselves? Means that teaching Nazi ideology is important.

·         Jews were not killed for what they did, but because of what they were.

·         Discuss and provide examples of people who struggled to find meaning in life.

Step 3:

·         How to return to life and continue to live.

·         Returning to find life changed and family gone.

·         Desires for revenge.

·         Desires for rebuilding. Families, schools, culture.





DAY 2
The second day Ephraim, who is a director at the museum that has been guiding us around the city and will guide through the museum on the third day, gave a presentation on the population, culture and politics of Poland. Looking specifically at the Polish data and watching part of a documentary on Polish life before the wars introduced me to the Yiddish language in a deeper way (which was furthered later with a lecture on Yiddish literature) and was an interesting insight into the diversity of experiences many lived. The remainder of the lecture became a somewhat confusing step into political groups ranging from a variety of Zionist parties, Orthodox, socialist and anti-religious Jewish groups.


Our second session was a sample use of visual and written biographical sources about individual experiences in Poland between the wars. We used these for comparative roleplays which were really interesting. It has been stressed to us repeatedly that once you reach the timeframe of the Shoah role play is not appropriate, but it can be used in the prelude. 

Our lunch break (felafels!!) was longer so I had time to walk around part of the site. I easily located the replica sculpture of the Dachau camp and walked through more of the Righteous of the Nations trees. 
 Look familiar?


The last lecture of the day was about the foundations to Holocaust Literature found in the storytelling, prayers and songs of Yiddish (or to a lesser extent other fusion languages which Jews might have spoken). What I found most interesting was that as with Christianity formerly having the Vulgate translations of the Bible that were unreachable to the non-Latin speaking populace of the Middle Ages, and Luther being determined to make it accessible, in the C16 a similar process was enacted for Jews through Yiddish with the Hasidic Revolution. Prayer and storytelling sought to reach the disenfranchised. (Hebrew is the formalised form for prayer, but many were not educated enough, so Israel Baal Shem Tov (1700-1760) used Yiddish for prayers). Next successors of Baal Shem Tov were taught by leaders who spread around Eastern Europe. With regards to the writings, many stories (like fairytales) had metaphoric connections to Messianic desires.


Another revolution which formed and shaped Yiddish writing was the Haskalah movement of the C17-18. Within this time, Jews could keep their religion but still maintain own individuality and associate with those of other faiths. This was a revolutionary invitation because usually Jews did not welcomely associate with others and leave the ghetto. This allowed greater exposure to Western canon, which was then adapted to Hebrew (too formal) then to Yiddish (more flexibility of language).


We also spent a bit of time declaring some differences between History and Literature.


Differences between History and Literature

History attempts to be dispassionate and objective.

Literature aims to be passionate and intensify emotion. Allows to experience beyond one’s        own personal experience.

History can more commonly relate to institutions or movements or larger concepts.                       

Literature, by contrast, can be about individuals, characters etc. 



Finally, we completed our day with a guided tour of some of the external memorials at Yad Vashem and finished in the Valley of the Communities, where we met our first Holocaust survivor, Hannah. 




I was not quite prepared for how her story played out, because at one moment I was listening to the historical account and at the next moment she became a literary character come to life. It was clear she had recounted this many times before because she was so polished, and it was quite clear that much was left out. Indeed, her summation of liberation and her journey to Israel were summarised in brief sentences and yet sounded like quite a narrative within themselves. I found myself more interested in how, after such a life experience, she could start afresh without parents, and make her way to the newly-made State of Israel. Perhaps this was because her war-time years were so intertwined with the life of Anne Frank that her own identity was overshadowed. That being said, she spoke for an hour and every minute was compelling.



Relevant information about Hannah and an interview which incorporated details we heard can be found at the following websites:







Monday, 28 December 2015

Back in Jerusalem

For the past few days I’ve been chilling in Jerusalem. I’m not going to dwell on the experience of customs in Budapest or my sniffly companion on the plane, because they are now over and I don’t particularly want to revisit it. Staying at Christ Church was a brilliant decision (thanks mum!!) because being inside the Old City walls meant it was even closer to Mamilla Mall and to the rabbit warren of streets that make up this place. I’ve felt a bit more vulnerable this time, and although I can navigate it like a local – I didn’t even worry about getting a map and I didn’t ever get lost! – I haven’t spent too much time in the narrow alleyways. I had a shop vendor recognise me from Mamilla Mall and it kind of creeped me out and reminded me that I’m too conspicuous. I can still haggle like the best of them but I haven’t really felt like buying any trinket like things because I already have the things from Jerusalem that I really wanted, and most people I would buy gifts for have already scored things from Jerusalem in the past.

I’ve also been sleeping like crazy. Christmas Day I think I managed about fifteen hours and I got at least that much on Boxing Day. My room at the Guest House has been really quiet and I’ve felt comfortable there, so I marathonned a few eps of the UK Who do you think you are and occasionally headed into the city during daylight for food or whatever.
The Christmas Tree near the New Gate

Corridor into my room at Christ Church

As a real contrast to the way I would normally celebrate this religious holiday, I attended the ‘open house’ at Christ Church on Christmas Eve which was pretty much gingerbread or nut biscuits (which I avoided) and mulled wine (which I also avoided owing to general overdose this month) and four and a half hours of carol singing. The only time we stopped singing was for the rotation of pianists/trumpeters/violinists and singers. Many songs were sung in a variety of languages but predominantly English and Hebrew. Each rotation of performers brought a different style – there were the Hebrew song fanatics, the let’s pretend Hillsong does carols, the I’m a soprano listen to me hit those high notes (and boy did I have fun with that set), chilled jazz style and traditional classical pianist etc. A number of the carols were repeated from group to group, so there were a few that we’d sung five-seven times by the end. At half-ten the nine lessons and carols started which included another eleven carols before holy communion. It was relatively High Anglican and we sang a number of the responses in Hebrew, so it was quite the experience. I stayed awake for another couple of hours so I could ring home after their Christmas morning service.


Christmas Day I walked the ramparts from Jaffa Gate to the Dung Gate, which is a section I have walked near but not actually taken before. The better views of Temple Mount are found on the Jaffa-Damascus Gate section but I got to see a number of cemeteries (Armenian, Greek Orthodox and Jewish) along the way as well as enjoy views of the Dormition and the Mount of Olives. The weather has been stunning, especially after Europe, which I also generally liked, but it is pleasant to walk around without thermal layers and the blue jacket which featured so prominently in my life in the past fortnight.

The reason I walked to the Dung Gate was basically because it was proximal to the Jewish Quarter. Because it was Friday, the queues to enter the Western Wall were much busier than normal, so I just took photos from afar- I’ve been there a number of times before anyway, and I expect the Yad Vashem group will be taken there at least once.
Towards the new city, with the Citadel of David to the right


Dome of the Rock on the left, Mount of Olives to the right.

Western Wall and Temple Mount

Highlight of course was CARROT SALAD, which I’m pretty convinced is my favourite food in the world. Because Shabbat was imminent the café was so quiet that initially I was the only customer, and because I knew what I wanted so quickly the server said “Ah, you’ve been here before!”  So I chatted happily with him about how renowned the carrot salad was in my family. I sat in the corner with the great view of the Mount of Olives and the Jewish quarter and Al-Aqsa Mosque. Again, because it is Friday and I was at a high vantage point I could see the men gathering for prayers outside the mosque and because there were so many they spilled outside and conducted their prayers there.

So it was quite an un-Christmassy experience to be eating kosher food in the Jewish Quarter watching the Muslims pray, but yet I got to have my favourite food in my favourite café in my favourite city at Christmas, and that was pretty darn cool. Afterwards I went and bought a pair of shoes because hello all the shops were open until just before Shabbat started anyway. Had a piece of my beleaguered Darrell Lea pudding which THIS TIME I hid carefully so it didn’t end up a victim of housekeeping, and then basically slept away the rest of Christmas. So church, food and a nap. Apart from the people contact it was pretty much the Christmas experience!

As a general reflection, the city does not feel as busy as it has on previous visits. That might be why the hawkers feel more insistent, as their business is less. I also noticed though that if I wasn’t carrying any bags I was usually left alone more. If I had a bag or two (even if it was groceries) I was clearly fair game. I’d usually play it off and say “But I’ve already done my shopping!” however I have found it less of a game and more of a nuisance this time. I think this is because I am lacking a wingman, and even though there were times in the past I walked through the alleyways by myself, I know it just feels different this time. I also haven’t seen as many small groups of soldiers around. Once in the Jewish quarter I saw a huge contingent of them walk towards the Flower Gate, and I might have seen a few sitting at cafes when I caught the Light Rail, but compared with previously, there is actually less of an army presence.

I caught a taxi to the new hotel where I’ll be staying during the Gandel Program, and it is much larger than my room at Christ Church. I have a good view of the new city and good glimpses of the Mount of Olives from my room because I’m on the sixth floor. 

It’s an area of Jerusalem I’m not as familiar with but I found an actual supermarket which was great to browse, rather than the cramped little corner shop style I’m familiar with in the old city.

The program will commence in the morning and I am devoutly thankful I didn’t come straight from Australia to arrive today as so many of the participants have. My holiday section is now over, but I’m prepared for the study to start. It’s why I’m here, after all (apart from the allure of carrot salad, but we’ll keep that a semi-secret). 

Friday, 25 December 2015

Four cities: A retrospective.



Four cities: A retrospective.



Best city:
For food: Budapest
For quaintness: Salzburg
For culture: Vienna
For ease of navigation: Munich
For hotel: Salzburg
For Christmas Markets: Salzburg or Budapest
For general shopping: Munich
For highlight experiences: Salzburg
For weather: Munich or Salzburg

Worst city:
For hotel: Munich
For ease of navigation: Vienna
For weather: Vienna
For safety: Vienna or Budapest
For having smokers everywhere: Munich


I would visit any of these cities again. Munich was the only one I felt I covered well, which is probably attributable to the fact I spent twice as long there as anywhere else. Vienna especially I felt that I didn’t cover well, and the weather didn’t help. I think Salzburg would be really charming in spring or summer. A little more time in Budapest would have allowed me to do some things on the Buda side – I stayed exclusively on Pest apart from the bridge and the cruise which were between.

I really enjoyed the Intrepid group experience, and think that travelling this way might be a preferred manner in the future for countries where I am not conversant with the language. Having orientation walks was of immense value because they made the cities friendlier and less confusing. It also meant that I wasn’t really alone most of the time but could still be an independent traveller if I fancied going places different to the others.