Back in Jerusalem

For the past few days I’ve been chilling in Jerusalem. I’m not going to dwell on the experience of customs in Budapest or my sniffly companion on the plane, because they are now over and I don’t particularly want to revisit it. Staying at Christ Church was a brilliant decision (thanks mum!!) because being inside the Old City walls meant it was even closer to Mamilla Mall and to the rabbit warren of streets that make up this place. I’ve felt a bit more vulnerable this time, and although I can navigate it like a local – I didn’t even worry about getting a map and I didn’t ever get lost! – I haven’t spent too much time in the narrow alleyways. I had a shop vendor recognise me from Mamilla Mall and it kind of creeped me out and reminded me that I’m too conspicuous. I can still haggle like the best of them but I haven’t really felt like buying any trinket like things because I already have the things from Jerusalem that I really wanted, and most people I would buy gifts for have already scored things from Jerusalem in the past.

I’ve also been sleeping like crazy. Christmas Day I think I managed about fifteen hours and I got at least that much on Boxing Day. My room at the Guest House has been really quiet and I’ve felt comfortable there, so I marathonned a few eps of the UK Who do you think you are and occasionally headed into the city during daylight for food or whatever.

The Christmas Tree near the New Gate

Corridor into my room at Christ Church

As a real contrast to the way I would normally celebrate this religious holiday, I attended the ‘open house’ at Christ Church on Christmas Eve which was pretty much gingerbread or nut biscuits (which I avoided) and mulled wine (which I also avoided owing to general overdose this month) and four and a half hours of carol singing. The only time we stopped singing was for the rotation of pianists/trumpeters/violinists and singers. Many songs were sung in a variety of languages but predominantly English and Hebrew. Each rotation of performers brought a different style – there were the Hebrew song fanatics, the let’s pretend Hillsong does carols, the I’m a soprano listen to me hit those high notes (and boy did I have fun with that set), chilled jazz style and traditional classical pianist etc. A number of the carols were repeated from group to group, so there were a few that we’d sung five-seven times by the end. At half-ten the nine lessons and carols started which included another eleven carols before holy communion. It was relatively High Anglican and we sang a number of the responses in Hebrew, so it was quite the experience. I stayed awake for another couple of hours so I could ring home after their Christmas morning service.

Christmas Day I walked the ramparts from Jaffa Gate to the Dung Gate, which is a section I have walked near but not actually taken before. The better views of Temple Mount are found on the Jaffa-Damascus Gate section but I got to see a number of cemeteries (Armenian, Greek Orthodox and Jewish) along the way as well as enjoy views of the Dormition and the Mount of Olives. The weather has been stunning, especially after Europe, which I also generally liked, but it is pleasant to walk around without thermal layers and the blue jacket which featured so prominently in my life in the past fortnight.

The reason I walked to the Dung Gate was basically because it was proximal to the Jewish Quarter. Because it was Friday, the queues to enter the Western Wall were much busier than normal, so I just took photos from afar- I’ve been there a number of times before anyway, and I expect the Yad Vashem group will be taken there at least once.

Towards the new city, with the Citadel of David to the right

Dome of the Rock on the left, Mount of Olives to the right.

Western Wall and Temple Mount

Highlight of course was CARROT SALAD, which I’m pretty convinced is my favourite food in the world. Because Shabbat was imminent the café was so quiet that initially I was the only customer, and because I knew what I wanted so quickly the server said “Ah, you’ve been here before!”  So I chatted happily with him about how renowned the carrot salad was in my family. I sat in the corner with the great view of the Mount of Olives and the Jewish quarter and Al-Aqsa Mosque. Again, because it is Friday and I was at a high vantage point I could see the men gathering for prayers outside the mosque and because there were so many they spilled outside and conducted their prayers there.

So it was quite an un-Christmassy experience to be eating kosher food in the Jewish Quarter watching the Muslims pray, but yet I got to have my favourite food in my favourite café in my favourite city at Christmas, and that was pretty darn cool. Afterwards I went and bought a pair of shoes because hello all the shops were open until just before Shabbat started anyway. Had a piece of my beleaguered Darrell Lea pudding which THIS TIME I hid carefully so it didn’t end up a victim of housekeeping, and then basically slept away the rest of Christmas. So church, food and a nap. Apart from the people contact it was pretty much the Christmas experience!

As a general reflection, the city does not feel as busy as it has on previous visits. That might be why the hawkers feel more insistent, as their business is less. I also noticed though that if I wasn’t carrying any bags I was usually left alone more. If I had a bag or two (even if it was groceries) I was clearly fair game. I’d usually play it off and say “But I’ve already done my shopping!” however I have found it less of a game and more of a nuisance this time. I think this is because I am lacking a wingman, and even though there were times in the past I walked through the alleyways by myself, I know it just feels different this time. I also haven’t seen as many small groups of soldiers around. Once in the Jewish quarter I saw a huge contingent of them walk towards the Flower Gate, and I might have seen a few sitting at cafes when I caught the Light Rail, but compared with previously, there is actually less of an army presence.

I caught a taxi to the new hotel where I’ll be staying during the Gandel Program, and it is much larger than my room at Christ Church. I have a good view of the new city and good glimpses of the Mount of Olives from my room because I’m on the sixth floor. 

It’s an area of Jerusalem I’m not as familiar with but I found an actual supermarket which was great to browse, rather than the cramped little corner shop style I’m familiar with in the old city.

The program will commence in the morning and I am devoutly thankful I didn’t come straight from Australia to arrive today as so many of the participants have. My holiday section is now over, but I’m prepared for the study to start. It’s why I’m here, after all (apart from the allure of carrot salad, but we’ll keep that a semi-secret).